The Baschenis and the “Dance of Death”
What if Alpine churches, with their pointed bell towers, also held perfectly preserved 16th-century frescoes? This is precisely the case in Val Rendena, where the Baschenis family left their mark.
The Baschenis were a long-lived dynasty of sacred artists from the Bergamo valleys. Specialising in frescoes, they were itinerant painters, passing their craft from father to son. They flourished during the height of the Late Gothic style — a movement spread across much of Europe, known for its courtly themes and vivid realism, sometimes veering into the grotesque.
Of all the Baschenis artists, Simone Baschenis II stands out as the most representative and “modern” in his figurative expression. He embraced the formal innovations of the Renaissance and, together with his son Filippo, worked in the Brenta Dolomites until 1547. He was the creator of the “Dance of Death” frescoes in Santo Stefano (Carisolo) and San Vigilio (Pinzolo) — two of the nine churches in Val Rendena decorated by the Baschenis.
At a time when most of the population was illiterate, frescoes served a dual purpose: decorative and educational. Worshippers could learn Church dogmas, simply by observing the paintings.
The ancient church of San Vigilio was probably built in the 10th century. In 1539, Simone II decorated the south façade with one of the most extraordinary frescoes in the valley: the Dance of Death, a rare iconography in the Alpine region.
Despite centuries of exposure to the elements, the fresco remains largely intact. It is considered one of Europe’s most compelling representations of the Dance Macabre, a theme exploring death that originated in France.
The first known depiction of the “Dance Macabre” dates to 1424, in The Holy Innocents’ Cemetery, Paris. The theme was innovative and emotionally powerful, conveying a stark message of equality before death — the Memento Mori — regardless of social status.
Perched on a striking and mysterious rock at the entrance to Val Genova, the church of Santo Stefano offers a glimpse into the Baschenis legacy. Inside, visitors can admire works by several members of the dynasty, including Antonio Baschenis’ elegant saints painted in 1461. Outside, Simone II’s frescoes are visible, signed in the intrados of the window. Below scenes from the life of Saint Stephen, the Dance of Death unfolds, accompanied — as in Pinzolo — by depictions of the seven deadly sins.
The site is an open-air museum, nestled among green conifers.
